A bespoke jacket in purple silk
The collar of this jacket is the main feature. The lapels are designed to fit through slots in the jacket, and the collar stands up around the neck line. It has quite a stunning effect. The front fastening is a single button and bound button hole. In this case, the button is a hand made vintage button, which is one of a kind.
This jacket is made in purple silk dupion and lined with bremsilk. The techniques used were called ‘speed tailoring’ which is used by most of the fashion houses for their ready to wear (and some bespoke) ranges. It is a modern version of the traditional tailoring methods, using modern fusible materials. In this case the fusibles were not applied directly onto the silk, but an interlining of silk organza was used as an internal layer. This ensured that the nature of the outer fabric was not compromised. This is not always necessary, it depends on the fabric and style of garment, and the fusibles being used.
The jacket was worn with a top and trousers in tartan silk which has a purple stripe running through it in the same colour as the jacket.